Electrical connection standards and installation policy guidance

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Verizon Pro install partner and their technicians are required to provide common installation materials to complete all assigned dispatches. This includes, but is not limited to wire, loom, connectors, fuses, weatherproof fuse holders, diodes, SPDT relays, grommets, silicone, RTV, and dielectric grease.

Any special request customer items such as PVC jacketed 2+ conductor wire etc. may be considered for reimbursement on an ad hoc basis, by contacting the Installation Scheduler or Field Ops Manager by phone or email.

Technicians should verify, with the customer, if a particular wiring method is required before beginning and make reasonable attempts to accommodate requests that utilize VZC approved wiring methods.

Approved wiring methods

  1. Poke and Wrap
  2. Butt connectors, ring terminals or crimp caps (heat shrink as applicable)
  3. Add-A-Circuit fuse holders
  4. Posi-Lock branded connectors (e.g., Posi-Tap in dry cabs and Posi-Tite in wet areas)
  5. OEM splice pack pin connectors
  6. Solder is reserved for use upon customer request

Use of Scotch locks, T-Taps, wire nuts, spade connectors, or fuse blades is strictly forbidden. Never twist wires end-to-end or twist a wire around the blade of a fuse, a lug, or screw. An approved mechanical connector or solder must be used.

Installation Requirements

All direct power connections must be made with 3-5 amp fusible links placed within 6-18 inches (15-45cm) of the voltage source, and weatherproof fusible links must always be used outside the cab. Installers should utilize existing vehicle pass-thru locations whenever possible.

Drivers should always be free of device and wiring distractions. Improper cable installation can interfere with the vehicle pedals or steering. Interference with the pedals or steering can cause a crash, resulting in serious injury or death! Secure cables so that they will not interfere with the pedals, steering wheel, or other moving parts.

You may use zip ties, screws, or very high bond Velcro, or two sided VHB tape (dependent on model of device) to secure devices.

Do not cover the ESN/Serial number with VHB tape. The strong tapes required for secure mounting will peel the label off and make the ESN unreadable if the unit is moved for transfers or troubleshooting.

Always look before you drill

Verify you will not damage adjacent equipment that may be present on the other side of the drilling surface, and never drill without explicit customer permission. Grommets and loom should be used to protect wiring in installer made pass-thru locations, and gaps should be sealed with silicone.

Roll-over protective structures

Refer to the ROPS identification help article For more information about identifying ROPS structures. Always get permission before you drill, and look to make sure you will not damage any adjacent equipment or OSHA required certified ROPS structures.

Failure to adhere to this guidance violates OSHA and Dept of Labor safety statutes and may result in expensive damage claim repairs and recertification costs.

Technicians must never drill into, or use any size mounting screws or bolts, on any part of a ROPS structure. Please refer to the equipment's owner's manual to verify the precise structures the manufacturer defines as a ROPS structure

  • If you are unable to determine what parts makeup the manufacturer defined ROPS structure reasonable efforts should always be made to mount devices in locations where the device can be secured using zip ties and VHB tape. Use at least two 1" (2.5cm) wide strips of VHB tape placed down the full length of the edges of the asset tracker's longest side.

Fusing power connections

A 3-5 amp inline fuse holders must be placed within 6"-18" (15-45cm) inches of any VZC device's power connection if it is not already fused.

Weather-proof fuse holders must be used in any in-cab area exposed to moisture and when making any power connections outside vehicle cabs or weather protected areas.

Inside the cab

Electrical connections inside dry cabs may be made using the poke and wrap method, heat shrink ring terminals and butt connectors, solder, Add-A-Circuit or Posi-lock connectors. Waterproof connectors shall be used in any wet areas inside the cab e.g. under carpeting, sill plates, kick plates etc.

Never leave exposed wiring in or out of the vehicle cab. Protect wiring outside the dash by concealing it under floor coverings, sill plates, kick plates. Plastic wire loom must be used to protect any exposed section of wire.

Outside the cab

All power connections outside the cab require protected connectors such as heat shrink butt connectors and ring terminals, or Posi-Lock waterproof connectors (Posi-Tite version of the product). Poke and Wrap wiring and solder should be avoided outside the cab when possible. If used, these connections must be coated with dielectric grease, then protected with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape secured in place using zip ties and further protected with plastic wire loom.

Making Ground Connections

Never ground a device by twisting it wire to wire, even if you know 100% it’s a ground wire.

Light duty vehicles

Use a ring terminal and self-tapping screw to create a secure isolated chassis ground for the device, or connect ground to a factory-marked slice pack, spare wire or grounding bolt labeled for this purpose.

Heavy duty trucks and construction vehicles

DO NOT make a chassis ground in the cab using a self-tapping screw and ring terminal in late model heavy trucks or construction equipment.

Connect a device's ground wire to a factory-marked slice pack, spare wire, or grounding bolt labeled for this purpose. In the rare case one of these options is unavailable, extend the ground wire to the negative battery terminal, a location on the chassis that is cleanly bonded to the frame by a ground strap, or to the engine.

Voltage drop should not exceed .5 volts between the source and device. Perform a voltage drop test when necessary to make sure current is flowing without excessive resistance. If voltage drop exceeds .5 volts verify electrical connections are secure, free of wire damage and corrosion.

Poke And Wrap Technique

  1. Remove approximately one inch of wire insulation
  2. Split the wire in half making an oval and push the wire to be terminated through that hole
  3. Press the wire back together then wrap the excess newly inserted wire tightly around it
  4. Wrap the new splice with Super 33 or better electrical tape
  5. Apply two wire ties to the splice
  6. The first goes over the splice and the other approximately 1 inch (2.5cm) down line of splice

Poke_and_Wrap_Technique.png

Butt Connector Ring Terminals / Mechanical Crimp

These are most frequently used for "end to end" splicing and come in a heat shrinkable weather resistant version that should always be used for connections outside the cab. Open ended barrel or taped connections should never be used where splices are open to the elements. This is the only way to guarantee a corrosion free splice for the life of the device.

Butt_Connector_Ring_Teminals.png

Add-A-Circuit

If the back of the box is closed and there is no other known / documented location for a Battery and Ignition feed then you will need to interface at the fuse power distribution box from the fuse side. This can be done a few ways, but never use a standard fuse tap as it will damage the fuse box if or when removed. Use a 3-5 amp fuse on the side sending power to the VTU/TTU.

Add-A-Circuit.png Fuse_Box.png


Posi-Lock Connectors

Posi-Lock connectors are available through their website and various resellers.

Soldered Wiring

If requested by the customer, you may solder connections wire to wire connections. However, you must always take great care not to drip hot solder in a vehicle interior which can result in interior fires or damage to adjacent wiring. If you have never been trained to solder, don’t attempt it during an installation.


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